Violin Forum/Message Board

DonLeister · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 8:02 pm Post subject:

It's a great workshop, try to go. It's like violin making heaven.
Until then what to do?
About the joints can you just run it through a band saw and cut the halves apart?
I don't know what shape your plane is in but I have to ask, is the sole flat, or have you checked? If it is flat then the next matter is sharpening like Michael said.
I will often moisten the edges I am planing to make it go smoother, but it still should not be a lot of effort. I think there are some threads in this forum that deal with joining plates, if not then on other forums.

medstudent · Junior Member Joined: 21 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

I was afraid you guys were going to say that. It is a truth that I am in denial about I think. I would absolutely love to go to a beginner's violin making class. However, I live in KY, which is not too close to CA unfortunately. I wish there were some in the area.
With the way you all are describing planing, I must be doing something terribly wrong. I have to put my weight into that plane like my life depends on, especially with the maple, I can barely get the thing across there. I tried to set it as low as possible. But I REALLY have to put some muscle behind that thing to get it to go across.
The plane I am using is a GROZ 14" bench plane. I got it on sale from woodcraft.com and they sharpened it for me, so I thought I would be sharp for a while.
Since I need to take it apart, does anyone have a good idea of how to undo the joint? I don't have a band saw, although that was a good idea.

DonLeister · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 10:23 pm Post subject:

Maybe use the saw you cut out your mold with, what was that?

Here is some good reading for sharpening and more.

http://violinmag.com/

Michael Darnton · Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 11:13 pm Post subject:

medstudent · Junior Member Joined: 21 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

To cut out the mold I used a jig saw with a very fine "band saw" blade on it. I think I will try that. Thanks for the idea and info on sharpening.
I found several videos on youtube about planing. Hopefully that will help me to get a tighter joint.
I think I will pick up some stones and other sharpening items tomorrow. It seems like I need to buy a new tool for every step of the way. Just like my other hobbies, this is getting expensive!

Chet Bishop · Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:00 am Post subject:

medstudent · Junior Member Joined: 21 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

Chet Bishop · Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:57 am Post subject:

If you wear a thin, good-quality pair of gloves, they will protect your hands, and still give you the dexterity you need. If you just bump the iron, you will not get burned.

BTW, I was not suggesting you sell your first fiddle. I was pointing out that with care, your first fiddle will be better than one you could have bought for similar cost, and you will have learned how to make a violin.
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Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com

medstudent · Junior Member Joined: 21 Nov 2010 Posts: 11

Bill Chambers · Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:48 am Post subject:

Hi MedStudent.

Been there did that, study hard.

You might want to look at a previous thread.

http://www.violins.ca/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1320

I purchased a white violin. Very, very nicely built. Noooop, I did not build it. But it is a good place to start. You will learn set up techniques, and putting in your peg holes, reaming out your holes, varnishing etc. This took about 3 weeks. I use this violin all the time. Take it to class and several pros have played it. The usual word is [ wow! ]. Thus, anyways, I think that the white violin is a good place to start. I spoke to several who thought this was a good place to start and work "backwards". Build a white violin. Second one take it apart and re-graduate it, glue it back together, etc... I am on my 5th violin now. Just a suggestion. You might want to consider it. But, by the time I purchased all my tools and videos and books, etc. I spent probably $1500 to $1800 bucks. Just a thought. Have fun. Dr. Bill

Dave Chandler · Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject: joint

When I'm unsatisfied with a joint, I use a band saw to recut it, because it has a very fine kerf, leaving me wood to work with.

Not only should you not not see any light when the prepared halves are held up to the light, they should also not rock against each other. You can block light and still not have it flush on both sides at the same time. I just keep going at it, eventually I'll get a clean and flush fit. Glue and clamp with the wood warm, and the glue above 135 degrees.

Sharp enough to shave and perfectly flat blade, perfectly flat sole of the plane--no short cuts here!
_________________
Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo

Dave Chandler · Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:30 pm Post subject: Bad Joint

Another thing I like to do, when I've joined my back/front there's usually an inch or two waste material on either end, cut a half inch or so of the waste off the end where you have the least confidence, and see how much force it takes to make the joint break in the waste material, and check to see if its the joint that gave way, or did it take wood with it. If it takes wood with it, I'm usually pretty satisfied with my glue joint.
_________________
Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo

DonLeister · Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 4:52 am Post subject:

I use 60 grit paper for sanding the rib garland, it came from Lowe's in the floor sanding section, they have large sheets about 16" x 10" or so. 80 grit will work well too. I glued 3 sheets to a built up board with some spray adhesive type contact cement.

edit- I presume you will wait to sand the ribs until after all the ribs are on, I leave it a tiny bit proud of the blocks and once the linings are all in then I take it down to the blocks.

A nice thing about workshops is seeing what tools will work well and learning where to put your money. Michael Darnton demonstrates his methods and realizes there are many ways to do things so you are allowed that freedom.
So you get to see his way and other maker's methods, although I have to say after trying his methods I almost always see an improvement in my quality and efficiency of work.

Dave Chandler · Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 2:56 pm Post subject: Sanding rib garland

I've found 320 grit seems to take wood off more quickly than the lower numbered grit, and leaves a better surface. If you think about it, there's a lot of dead space between the large bits of sand in the lower grit paper. The higher the grit, the more surface interaction, i.e. the faster it takes wood off. Seems counterintuitive.

There is an effective ratio of surface area to the number of teeth (individual grains) in the paper, so when you get above 320, it becomes less effective once again.

I've not thought to look in Lowe's flooring department, good info Don. If you can find an equipment rental operation, they have large sandpaper pieces for floor sanders, probably like what Don Leister found at Lowe's, but I think the pieces are more like 14 x 14 maybe larger, in various grits, but square.
_________________
Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo

Dave Chandler · Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 2:59 pm Post subject:

Don, noticed something interesting in the latest "Fiddler" magazine. Nice article.
_________________
Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo