Violin Forum/Message Board

johngia · Member Joined: 10 Nov 2009 Posts: 84

Many reputable suppliers sell cleaner/polish for violins. I read somewhere that the best polish/cleaner was the one that you did not use.

What's the general consensus on it's use?

Thanks,

John

Mat Roop · Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:47 am Post subject:

Johngia... it all depends.
some polishes are deadly for violins. especially those containing silicone... so for sure stay away from any commercial furniture polish or even guitar polish.
If you want to use polish, be sure to use one from a reputable violin dealer... for example http://www.violins.ca/accessories/violin_cleaner_polish.html
and when you use these quality polishes, remember that less is better... use the ploish or cleaner sparingly... never lay it on as wet... just mildly damp.
If you instrument has any open cracks, .. DO NOT POLISH... have the cracks repaired first by a reliable luthier. Otherwise the crack will be contaminaed with the polish and a solid crack repair may be difficult.

So in general, if you don't have to use polish ... don't. If you feel you must... be meticulous about inspecting your instrument first then use polish sparingly.
Cheers, Mat

Michael Darnton · Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:52 am Post subject:

I would be happiest if players never got to the point where polishing was necessary, by wiping the rosin off their vioilins immediately, and a quick wipe all over with a damp paper towel once in a while to take off finger crud.

Then leave the real polishing to me.
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johngia · Member Joined: 10 Nov 2009 Posts: 84

Thanks guys. I did some further research after I posted this question, and found some information on the subject. Your answers are in line with the general consensus.

I was asking in regards to doing a new finish. Oil varnish, pumice, then tripoli. I wanted a slightly shiner surface. I had used some polish from International Luthiers (no longer in business?), some from a local shop, and some of the "bad" stuff on my first 11 --- hopefully I haven't ruined them. Am finishing up No. 12 and 13. Every violin I make has a different finish technique. I haven't really been happy with any of them. Going to keep making until I learn how to do a finish I am pleased with. The woodworking ain't bad, the sound pretty good --- but oh that finish .....

Thanks again,

John

L P Reedy · Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 5:51 pm Post subject:

I have never (and would never) use that kind of polish on a new finish, or any finish for that matter. My varnish is pretty shiny as is, if that's your goal. Most people want to take off a little of the shine.

Maybe you need to spend some time practicing on scrap wood until you find something you like, instead of practicing on actual instruments.

johngia · Member Joined: 10 Nov 2009 Posts: 84

Well, you live and learn. I had "assumed" that just because professional violin suppliers sold the stuff, that it was acceptable to use. And also, being a little familiar with guitars and guitar making --- to the best of my understanding, many guitar makers commonly use Meguiars cleaner/wax. So, I again "assumed"....

I suppose some of my finishes aren't that bad. I'm just a perfectionist and hobbyist trying to learn how to get one to look like Stradivari's Messiah.

Chet Bishop · Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:22 pm Post subject:

So...just outta curiosity, cuz I don't have a bottle to go check...does Meguiar's have silicone? I have known folks to use that on new violins, and in fact have done so myself in the past. (Don't have any now, and don't recall seeing silicone in the mix. Just wondering...)

I liked the heavy cut polish for getting the glittery shine off the new varnish, and the mirror glaze for bringing back as much of the soft shine as I wanted. Now I use micromesh and water to accomplish the same thing. Final polish with my bare hand or a rag. Seems to work well, and doesn't leave a residue.
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DonLeister · Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:52 pm Post subject:

Since we're talking about something newly made, lately I have been using 0000 steel wool with a dab of mineral oil/mineral spirits mix. The oil is a little too thick and with some mineral spirits mixed in it works well for me.
It pulls off the bits of dust and does a little bit of leveling, but not like micromesh or paper might.
The idea is to leave some texture to the surface.
I wipe the oil off with a kleenex and the last of the oil off with a -tiny- bit of alcohol on a cloth. Note that every varnish will handle differently after it has cured and with especially with alcohol near it, don't do this with violins other than ones you made.

johngia · Member Joined: 10 Nov 2009 Posts: 84

There are no ingredients listed on the bottle (Cleaner/Wax Product No. A-1216). I checked their website for info and found none. I'll contact next week to inquire, as they are closed today because of New Years Eve.

Well, another year gone. The next one should be more "interesting" than the last.

Mat Roop · Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 2:16 pm Post subject:

Michael Darnton · Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:17 pm Post subject:

Mineral oil does eventually evaporate, but very slowly, as any old motor will tell you. On top of varnish, with drying oil you run the risk of making a gunky coating that will collect crud.

I polish directly with oil and tripoli. I don't like the coarseness of pumice. I have never tried steel wool, but I like Don's idea, in theory.

A good polish that doesn't contain silicone is this stuff:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Preservation_Polish.html
I use it a lot in my shop. It makes an interesting lubricant for french polishing, too, which I do once in a while on new instruments.

Recently, I've been using this as a final finish:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003235/462/Renaissance-Wax.aspx
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Mat Roop · Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:53 pm Post subject:

Thanks Michael... I had never thought of mineral oil as an oil that will dry.
the wax idea sounds good too... another order to Stewmac ! Smile

Cheers, Mat

DonLeister · Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:18 pm Post subject:

Mat,

My experience is that the mineral oil does evaporate, I have used linseed oil and I can tell a difference if I don't get it totally off.
I'm doing this on my new instruments too so the wood is completely sealed, no cracks, or bare wood, etc.
In between coats of varnish could be problematic if all the oil isn't gotten off or if it is coming out of the pores which I have seen it do after I thought I had wiped it off.
I should put a spot of the stuff on a piece of paper and see what it does over time.

Michael Darnton · Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:28 pm Post subject:

When I say that it dries, I'm thinking in historical terms--decades, centuries, whatever. If you get a lot of oil into bare wood, and have to glue a crack next year, you may have a problem, but probably not in 30 years.

But on a new violin you can wipe almost all of it off, and there aren't any cracks. It won't go through fresh varnish too easily.
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johngia · Member Joined: 10 Nov 2009 Posts: 84

Quote from email response from Meguiars:

"the A1216 Deep Crystal Wax does contain silicone in it as do all of our current waxes"