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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 1:42 pm Post subject: Gluing tool/ method |
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Found this interesting article on the "Cheese knife" for gluing with hot hide glue.
http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/ts0104_cheesyknife.hzml?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ts0104 ... go to the last half of the page
Reminded me of a question I have been pondering...... what is the usual practice to apply the hot hide glue to the rib edges to glue tops so that it does not run down the ribs... or do you work with the violin upside down.... or do you apply the glue to the edges of the whole top at once ... but that only works if you work at lighning speed, and there is no time to push and shove to make all parts fit proerly.
How do you do it?
Cheers, Mat |
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Chet Bishop Super Member

Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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Sam Compton used to leisurely apply the glue to the edges of the entire garland, blocks and all, then gently clamp his plate in place, after the glue had gelled. He then took a hair-dryer, and went around the garland, re-heating the glue, and gently tightening clamps as he went. No muss; no fuss, no stress.
I sure miss Sam...
Chet _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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Andres Sender Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 275 Location: N. CA
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Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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Me too. _________________ You can only connect the dots that you have. |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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| I brush glue on the ribs/linings/blocks, and then work fast. There's always a bit of clean-up to do, but if you wet the ribs first, everything stays on the surface rather than working its way into the wood. |
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L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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I tried Sam's method today for the first time. My shop is very cold this time of year (especially this year) and applying clamps with one hand is not fast, either. I THINK this way worked very well. I'll know later. My biggest concern is the end blocks but I believe I got them warm enough. I realized after I got started that I could pretty well tell when the glue melted by the way the clamps tightened down.
Thanks for the reminder, Chet.
Lyle |
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Jack Rushing Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 170
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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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Can you imagine how inconvenient it must have been for Stradivari
back in those days. With no electric glue pot, or electric lights. Especially
on cloudy, winter, days. And having to working by candle light at night. |
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 12:51 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks for the suggestions... I had not heard or thought of the "Sam" method... sounds interesting... I have to try it. |
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Chet Bishop Super Member

Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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On a larger scale, Jim Ham, the Canadian Bass-maker, does a very similar thing, but allows the glue to completely dry before assembly, then uses live steam to re-liquify the glue. I tried this once, and managed to wash all the glue out of the seam, so that the plate was not even attached. I think my steamer was shooting too much water, and not enough steam.  _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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woodwiz Junior Member
Joined: 19 Apr 2007 Posts: 9
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Posted: Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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| I get the plate lined up with the ribs, aligned and clamped just the way I want it. Then I take off about 3 clamps at a time, and quickly work the glue into the seam with a palette knife, cleaning up as I go with a damp rag. Learned it at the shop where I work, and once you learn how to get an even spread it works great. |
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John Cadd Super Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2009 Posts: 1344 Location: Hoylake
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Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:21 am Post subject: |
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A guitar has no edge lip like a violin but it`s always better to have the glue applied with the joint lowest .Nothing will be able to dribble then.
The knife carrying the glue can hold some heat but in a cold room it can draw heat away as well. .Is a plastic "applicator" a better idea? The cheese holes idea is excellent. I made a few one handed clamps to overcome the awkward twisting needed.I don`t think I`ve ever seen any other one -handers. They have never been used so far. |
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terryc Member
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Posts: 27 Location: Falmouth, MA. USA
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Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 6:43 pm Post subject: Gluing back to ribs |
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| L P Reedy wrote: | | I tried Sam's method today for the first time. My shop is very cold this time of year (especially this year) and applying clamps with one hand is not fast, either. I THINK this way worked very well. I'll know later. My biggest concern is the end blocks but I believe I got them warm enough. I realized after I got started that I could pretty well tell when the glue melted by the way the clamps tightened down. Lyle |
I know its a long time since this post, but you said you would get back with the results; how did that method work?
I just glued up the back plate today and started thinking about how to more efficiently glue the front. For the back, I installed all clamps and lined it up and began releasing a few at a time while applying hot hide glue with a syringe ( without the needle and the end cut down to a fine tip). Got a lot of squeeze out trying to be sure enough glue contacted all surfaces.
Now the question, while most of the glue has been cleaned off the exposed surfaces, what is the best solution to a sure a suitable surface is available to accept varnish without blotchy spots? |
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L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Actually, I didn't say I would get back. I said I would know.
I don't remember the incident. Getting too old. But it must have worked or I would have had to reglue it And I'm sure I didn't. I'll try it again sometime if I can remember to. |
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terryc Member
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Posts: 27 Location: Falmouth, MA. USA
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Posted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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LP Reedy
Sorry for mis quoting you. Sounded like a efficient way of getting the job done. Thanks for getting back. Going to be gluing up the top shortly and was looking for different approaches.
Thanks again,
Terryc |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:19 am Post subject: |
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Wetting the ribs helps keep the glue on the surface where you can scrape it off. Also, I hardly use any glue at all. These days I find myself regluing about 30% after I take off the clamps. Squeeze-out is nil. _________________ new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com
Last edited by Michael Darnton on Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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terryc Member
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Posts: 27 Location: Falmouth, MA. USA
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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:38 am Post subject: |
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| Michael Darnton wrote: | | Wetting the ribs elhps keep the glue on the surface where you can scrape it off. Also, I hardly use any glue at all. These days I find myself regluing about 30% after I take off the clamps. Squeeze-out is nil. |
Thanks, plan on gluing the top plate today and will take your suggestion of wetting the ribs and refrain from being too heavy handed with the glue. I have tendency to be sure all contact points are covered.
I assume when you go back for the 30% that needs regluing, you are using a thin pallet knife? I think I remember, earlier back you said you glue the entire plate and quickly clamp.
Thanks again for sharing your process.
Terryc |
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