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Rough Shaping Back

 
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LPVest
Junior Member


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Blue Ridge Mts. of Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:22 am    Post subject: Rough Shaping Back Reply with quote

Greetings.
I have my back glued together and one side planed flat. What is a good way to cut away the excess wood to get the roof top shape?
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kjb
Super Member


Joined: 06 Feb 2013
Posts: 385

PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

many people use chisels and or scrub planes, just be very careful of you edges that you don't break off or chip, especially on the top, the grain is in a good position to do that.

also you should have an idea of what shape you are looking for and templates for that shape.

there are probably u tube videos of this, good luck and have fun.
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 911
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may fing this article helpful...
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/844403/STRAD_zethelius_hela.pdf
Cheers, Mat
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Cliff Green
Member


Joined: 01 Apr 2007
Posts: 111
Location: Amissville, Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LP
Here is my method. Using the already constructed rib garland, I draw the outline on the plate. With a band saw or bow saw cut the outline of the plate a couple of mm oversize and not forgetting to leave the button on the back. Now I use a drill press to establish depth marks at the usual places for arching templates (widest limits of bouts, corners, narrowest limit of c bout). These marks when connected give the longitudinal shape. Initially, I use a scrub plane to hog off excess straight across the plate and then a bench plane to smooth the outline as I get close to the expected limits. When the long arch is shaped then I cut the purfling table/platform 9 or 10mm for the upper and lower bouts and 6 to7mm C bout. The convex areas between the long arch and the platform can be reduced with flat planes and the concave areas with gouges. In all of this material removal I try to leave an extra mm or two and do my final arching with templates, thumb planes, and scrapers. As you can see I remove most of the material with flat planes which I find very efficient.
PS. I owned an Inca planer/joiner 10"wide before I started violin making. To save work I usually run the plate through the planer down to 1 or 2mm over the thickest part of the arching, say 17 or 18mm for 16mm arching but of course this is not necessary with good and sharp planes. I'm just lazy.
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LPVest
Junior Member


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Blue Ridge Mts. of Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 8:45 pm    Post subject: Rough Shaping Back Reply with quote

Thanks guys for your responses.
LP
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