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R Mac Member
Joined: 05 Mar 2013 Posts: 80 Location: Near Phily USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Don,
If I understand what you are saying; you are using a parallel sided rod to make sure that the upper part and its vee block are coaxial with the base, using the screws on the back of the tool. Having gotten that lined up, you then adjust the angel of the vee block carrier to match the taper.
Is that right?
Thanks!
Mac |
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R Mac Member
Joined: 05 Mar 2013 Posts: 80 Location: Near Phily USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:21 am Post subject: |
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Thank you, Michael.
I'll try the spit-thing and see if that helps. It has a real "what would Strad do" feel to it.
It's good to know that I wont go straight to Hell for using cheap pegs. I was beginning to worry about this....
Mac |
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TimRobinson Junior Member
Joined: 02 Jul 2009 Posts: 4 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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| R Mac wrote: | Tim,
Thanks for the description of your peg shaper. I built one of these when I made my hurdy gurdy about 15 years ago; and it worked OK. In the intervening (non instrument) time I lost track of it. Perhaps I need to "reinvestigate" that technology.
Mac |
I forgot to say, I also use lots of dry, hard soap (Sunlight) in shaping pegs. I think I got that idea from The Art of Violin Making. Do others do this?
Tim |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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Mac, that's correct, but I think the peg only contacts 3 surfaces, the blade and the 2 sides of the ^. But I could be wrong, I'll have to look again.
Tim, soap works well, I use Fels-naptha that I found at the hardware store.
Try dipping the peg in water and see how fast that goes (for roughing it down). I will do that as long as I don't need the peg for another few weeks so it can dry out well. |
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