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oldtime Junior Member
Joined: 16 Oct 2009 Posts: 3
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:18 pm Post subject: Peter Chandler Bass making book/plans |
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I have the book and plans. Has anyone followed this book? The plans do not show markings of the holes when making the form? Where should they be? Also the width of the sides from the peg at bottom to the bend decreases. When making the form, do I make the form width to progressively decrease also? The photos in the book appears to show that the form is much less than actual?
Is there anyone out there who has followed this book that I can talk with?
Thanks,
John |
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Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 4:43 pm Post subject: Bass via the Chandler book |
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John,
if you look at the thread below, about the finished bass, I built that one using the Chandler book and the "Tarr" plans I also got from him.
If you have specific questions, I will try to help, but I don't know what "holes" you are talking about.
I didn't make my mold exactly like his...I had made several earlier instruments, and combined ideas. I'd be happy to share, but I have to have fairly specific questions.
Chet _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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oldtime Junior Member
Joined: 16 Oct 2009 Posts: 3
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:02 am Post subject: |
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thanks. I finished the mold. The holes I was referring too, are holes in the top and bottom plywood (front and back of the mold). They are used- apparently to allow the clamp to hold in the sides in place. I just drilled out a whole sequence of holes (matching the bottom and top plates). I should be able to clamp the sides into place. I'm still trying to find some wood. I bought some curly maple on ebay, I can resaw it. The piece I'm finding hard to find is for the neck. I cannot find a piece wide and long enough to do it. Has anyone laminated two or three pieces together, or will that not work. Seems like if it is laminated then the scroll and peg box would not be as strong. Again, thanks for any help, I'm out here just trying to guess on some of this. |
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Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 5:45 pm Post subject: Laminated Neck |
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Yes it can be done. There are numerous examples-- some two-piece, with the single glue-seam up the center...others three-piece with a contrasting hardwood comprising the center layer.
Some guitar necks are five-piece...
For the clamping holes, I tried to put mine where I thought I would need them--imagining ahead of time where the pressure would need to be applied, and where that would require a clamp hole. One thing-- I did leave an open gap up the middle, so I had access to the inside, and, if needed, I could use a bar-clamp and just reach into the center slot to anchor it.
Chet _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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oldtime Junior Member
Joined: 16 Oct 2009 Posts: 3
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Chet.
I think I can find some maple to use glue up a two piece neck. I looked at your website. Very good! I'm thinking of making the flat back a three piece. For these joints- probably use wood glue and not hide glue?
I've made a lot of mountain dulcimers, but nothing else. Thanks for your help. The link for Tepper tonewoods- but doesn't show any bass, just up to cello size. I think the only piece I'll need is the spruce for the front. I guess that it would definitely need to be one piece? |
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Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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Noooo... Actually, I'd be amazed if you could find a one-piece bass top. Maybe it is possible...but usually they are two-piece with a seam up the middle.
The bass wood is not on John's website-- you need to contact him personally. I think I paid $450 for a bass top...maybe more. It comes in a sawn, book-matched pair, about 51" long, 3" thick at center, and 1/2" thick on outer edges.
As I recall the two flitches are about 14.5-15" wide, which allows for a pretty wide top. If your top is too wide, you cut scraps from the centerbout area, and wing out the lower bouts. He has Sitka tops, as I recall. _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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