Violin Forum/Message Board

YewPineyFiddler · Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 5:21 pm Post subject: Purfling Question

Hello Everyone,

I am new to the forum. I'm making my first violin and my next step is the purfling. I have a Ibex purfling marker (like the one Mr. Luscombe sells on his website) it has 2 single bevel blades with the combined thickness of 2.18 mm, which as you know is to thick for violin purfling.

So, I'm not sure what to do next? Should I reduce the thickness of the blades? If so how? How close in thickness should the blades be in relation to the purfling? I've seen it listed at 1.2 to 1.3mm

I've read that some makers round the blades of the marker. Dose that help?

Sorry for all the questions it's not easy on your own,
Daniel

Michael Darnton · Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 6:43 pm Post subject:

For a start, turn the blades over so the flat sides are together. Then you can shim between them to get the width you want. I have mine sharpened in a rounded end so I can go in either direction, but I had to reshape the guide finger so it was opposite the centers of the blades. I'm not sure that was really necessary.

With two blades, this tool is only for marking, and you would deepen each cut with a knife after marking them, which is probably an easier way to make things more precise. If you want to try cutting all the way down, use only one blade, and you'll have to reset it for either side of the purfling, of course..

violinarius · Member Joined: 14 Dec 2007 Posts: 171

Dave Chandler · Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:13 pm Post subject: purfling

I've found that scraping (slightly beveling) the bottom corners that go into the channel first, helps. Also, rather than thinning the purfling, I've heard others talk about compressing it a bit with a wooden roller (rolling pin?), and it will swell with the glue to fill the channel. I've not tried this, but it makes some sense.

I use my Ibex purfling tool only for marking the long sections, not for cutting the channel itself. Then I finish cutting the channel with exacto knife with a new blade. I also take a sharp pencil and draw in the curves into the corners rather than try to use the marking tool because its very difficult to make the tight turns. Next, I draw my final lines into the corners with the tip of my exacto knife, and rub the pencil lead into the knife marks to preserve them as I work, and erase the remainder of the pencil marks. These are light enough marks that they'll be long gone after finishing my edges..
_________________
Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo

YewPineyFiddler · Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:23 pm Post subject: Purfling Question

Thank you all, your input has been most helpful. I have a scrap back I'm going to practice on before I work on my good violin. I know it will be a lot of extra work but I think I need it.

I'm sure I'll have some more questions soon,
Thanks again,
Daniel