Violin Forum/Message Board

bagpipeswest · Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:07 am Post subject: what parts do I glue first

I everyone. I have a pre-war Suzuki that came to me in pieces and I glued the ribs back together. now its time to go on to the next step.

I need to know what do I glue next. Back to the ribs. or Top to the ribs. or or back,ribs and neck at once.

I need some input. before I do it and run into a problem I would of never seen.

thanks
Brent

Jack H. · Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 5:01 am Post subject:

back, belly then neck.

FiddleDoug · Member Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY

Before you glue everything back together, make sure that you repair and check over all internal defects. Before you glue the neck back on, be sure that all the measurements and angles are correct. Hot hide glue only! Having access to a good violin repair book will help a lot. Good luck.
_________________
Doug Wall

www.wallindependent.com

Mat Roop · Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:45 pm Post subject:

Be sure you do a complete dry test clamp before you apply the glue... And heat up all the gluing surfaces first with a hair dryer before you apply the hot hide glue ... otherwise it will set too fast. When you do apply the glue... work fast...the hide glue sets quick 1- 2 minutes.
Good luck... Mat

bagpipeswest · Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:02 am Post subject:

thanks

Ive done many dry runs. I glued the bottom on today with 32 spool clamps that i made yesterday. my goal was to line it up where it was before. It was perfect then, but I thought that was best.

Why not glue the neck on next? I'll have something clamp on to with the top off.

bagpipeswest · Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:05 am Post subject:

I meant to say that it didn't line up perfectly then so I thought that was best to glue it back in the same spot for the varnish reasons

FiddleDoug · Member Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY

Front next. If you don't have the front on, you'll have no idea what the correct neck angle should be.
_________________
Doug Wall

www.wallindependent.com

bagpipeswest · Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 1:33 pm Post subject:

the gluing of the back I think was a success. after putting all the ribs back together and the neck block to the ribs I ended being out .008 inch (feeler gauge) on one side where the ribs meet the neck.

Is there anything I should do before I glue the top on?

FiddleDoug · Member Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY

Here's where things get interesting. So you get the back, ribs, blocks, and top all glued back together. Then you check the fit of the neck into the mortise, and notice that the neck points off towards one of the f holes, and several mm high or low. This is where you might have to learn how to do a neck reset. Make sure all the measurements and angles are correct before gluing the neck.
_________________
Doug Wall

www.wallindependent.com

Mat Roop · Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:44 pm Post subject:

Getting the neck lined up straight down the middle of the violin and with the right projection will easy if you know how... if not... it will be a challenge. be sure you do not guess when you glue. Once glued you won't get it apart to do it again!
To get started, take a raw bridge and mark it up with a centerline so that it is easy to place on the violin top so that it centers from side to side. mark the projected height of the neck (or fingerboard if it is already glued to the neck) Hold the bridge in place either with a "C" shaped 8 guage wire ( one end inside the violin the other on top of the bridge) and bent to hold the bridge with some compression, or just use a long elastic band wrapped around the body from one bridge foot to the other. Calculate the final height of the bridge at the center from the instrument top to be 32 to 33 mm. When you dry clamp always remember that you will need to set the clamps such that you can see that everything lines up as you clamp with the glue.
Good luck!... Mat

Mat Roop · Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:44 pm Post subject:

Getting the neck lined up straight down the middle of the violin and with the right projection will easy if you know how... if not... it will be a challenge. be sure you do not guess when you glue. Once glued you won't get it apart to do it again!
To get started, take a raw bridge and mark it up with a centerline so that it is easy to place on the violin top so that it centers from side to side. mark the projected height of the neck (or fingerboard if it is already glued to the neck) Hold the bridge in place either with a "C" shaped 8 guage wire ( one end inside the violin the other on top of the bridge) and bent to hold the bridge with some compression, or just use a long elastic band wrapped around the body from one bridge foot to the other. Calculate the final height of the bridge at the center from the instrument top to be 32 to 33 mm. When you dry clamp always remember that you will need to set the clamps such that you can see that everything lines up as you clamp with the glue.
Good luck!... Mat

bagpipeswest · Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:17 pm Post subject:

well the top went on yesterday without a hitch. I spent a hell of a long time dry fitting the neck. it was off to one side about 3mm. I bought a neck angle gauge last week which made things easier.

Is 24hrs long enough for the neck to dry. I want to string it tomorrow

thanks for your help Now I know why you glue in the order you guys told me.

I'll posts pics if you guys want
Cheers Brent

Jack H. · Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 12:21 pm Post subject:

Post away!
Glad everything went together fine, hope you set the neck in relation to where the bridge needs to be and not the ff holes.

Mat Roop · Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:18 pm Post subject:

Always nice to see pics... Cheers, Mat

bagpipeswest · Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:35 am Post subject:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bagpipeswest/DropBox?authkey=QIMUI88ceG4#5283998316838471042

I threw a bunch of pics in. The camera picks up every bit of dirt on the fiddle.

Please let me know the good and the bad of what i did

just to add one more thing. The bridge was off another fiddle. I need to buy one and fit it. is 5.5mm on the G and 3.5mm on the E clearance I need? And what is a good bridge to buy?

Cheers Brent