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actonern
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Joined: 15 Aug 2007
Posts: 444
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 Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 6:30 pm Post subject: placement of peg holes |
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How critical is it do you all think for the peg holes to be arranged so that no string touches anything on its way to its shaft inside the pegbox?
To my eye, a peg hole centered on the cheek walls looks better, but the A string especially can have a slight deflection en route doing it this way.
Does it matter much either way?
Raising the A peg hole to provide this kind of clearance can bring it quite close to the upper cheek walls, making for weakness and cracks?
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DonLeister
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Joined: 29 Mar 2007
Posts: 383
Location: Richmond, VA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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| On my new instruments it is not okay if the strings rub on a peg and I do everything I can on older instruments , when I bush them , to have them not rub on another peg. My experience is limited and I do see exceptions. |
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ctviolin
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Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell
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| Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:57 pm Post subject: Re: placement of peg holes |
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| actonern wrote: |
To my eye, a peg hole centered on the cheek walls looks better, but the A string especially can have a slight deflection en route doing it this way.
Does it matter much either way?
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Another point to consider is that the peg box has a bottom layer of wood, but no top. (since the top is open)
When placing the pegs - I first draw the location(s) roughly half way from the open top of the box, to the line where the floor of the peg box is - giving them plenty of room above and below the shaft - that way they are not crowded in any way, (and are not exactly centered on the cheek wall) and I do modify (or, slightly raise) the A string so as; the string does not rub the D peg shaft, OR windings...
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Cliff Green
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Joined: 01 Apr 2007
Posts: 111
Location: Amissville, Virginia
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| Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 9:15 am Post subject: |
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| That's interesting CT. I center the A and G pegs on the outside of the peg box cheeks, then adjust the A and E pegs slightly lower than mid cheek for string clearance. A mock up drawing with the nut shown helps designing the neck template. I don't think you need a lot of relief between the peg and the back of the peg box and I'd rather have a lot of wood above the A peg. Most of the peg box cracks I see are at the A peg. |
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ctviolin
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Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell
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| Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 10:27 am Post subject: |
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| Cliff Green wrote: | | That's interesting CT. I center the A and G pegs on the outside of the peg box cheeks, then adjust the A and E pegs slightly lower than mid cheek for string clearance. A mock up drawing with the nut shown helps designing the neck template. I don't think you need a lot of relief between the peg and the back of the peg box and I'd rather have a lot of wood above the A peg. Most of the peg box cracks I see are at the A peg. |
this sounds workable...
I'll have to look closer at this idea - I always like to improve my (long established & often habitual) work habits, if possible.
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC
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| Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Cliff, I think you mean that you lower the Dand E pegs. I locate the A peg, then lay a straight edge from its center to the bottom of the nut and mark the D and E. Sometimes on one I didn't make I have to adjust the A hole slightly or remove a little wood from the bottom of the peg box, but I try hard to get clearance. |
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Cliff Green
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Joined: 01 Apr 2007
Posts: 111
Location: Amissville, Virginia
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| Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks LP
You're right, I lower the D and E pegs not the A |
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ctviolin
Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell
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| Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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It's funny how easy it is to misspeak if you don't go and look at the actual violin right then, isn't it?
I find that I must do so, often...
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