Violin Forum/Message Board

[MWard]

I was just referring to the pictures from the link in Michael Darnton's thread titled "Strad detail Photos" because I am in the process of making a mess of my edgework as usual. I have checked out some of the reading on this (Hargrave, I think) and was wondering if the more experienced makers could share tool/technique tips. Right now I am using a file and a knife to try to at least get some semblance of flow and crispness while referring back to the fiddle ---- pics in Michael's link. (Really, those pictures give me goosebumps.)

So how do you roll that edge over to get the beautiful ridge at the top? Knife? File? When I use a scraper it gets bumpy.
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May I always be the person my dog thinks I am.

[MWard]

Here is a link to some edges in progress. (Link deleted)
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May I always be the person my dog thinks I am.

[MWard]

OH yeah-- forgot to add that there a couple great pictures on MD's website that illustrate what I am trying for. http://darntonviolins.com/corners.php
_________________
May I always be the person my dog thinks I am.

[Chet Bishop]

While the edge is still square (after the purfling is complete, but before carving the channel) I mark the location of that "ridge". I make it about 40% of the distance between the outer edge of the plate and the outer edge of the purfling.

I carve the channel to that line, and scrape the innermost margin to fade into the arching.

I use a file to take off a small corner at 45 degrees all the way around the plate, upper and lower side. Then I hold the file nearly flat to the plate to round the "corner" into the "ridge". I hold the file nearly perpendicular to the plate to round the outer "corner" into the center of the plate edge, then repeat the last two steps to round the inner side of the plate.

At that point the edge should be round, the ridge sharp, and no "issues" with any transitions....like this:


I hope this helps a little...although now I see that there were still some tiny ridges. A piece of 400-grit sandpaper helps with those tiny ridges, which is how I fixed these before varnishing.
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Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com

[dvsutton]

I think the 'trick' is really sharp scrapers.
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on #13 now...

[MWard]

Thanks, Chet--- Your description is very helpful.
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May I always be the person my dog thinks I am.

[actonern]

"...I think the 'trick' is really sharp scrapers..."

As a general proposition, sharp scrapers are always better than dull ones

However, the "problem" with scrapers is that they always remove more wood in soft areas than hard. So, if you were using scrapers on the outer edge work of a spruce top, for example, the device would quickly create an exaggerated corrduroy between winter and summer growth.

Files are better, and there's NOTHING wrong with using sandpaper on these outer edges! In the end, results matter more than any theory...

E

[John Cadd]

I`m surprised to see scrapers being used on edges. If you use sandpaper make sure you have some support behind it that matches the shape you want .Wrap some round wooden dowels for sharper bends. The photo shows a dip between the hard grains. If a bottle ( or suitable curved object ) is used to support the sandpaper you can get a smoother line to the curve. Mark one surface line which will be the final top of the ridge. Mark 2 guide lines around the edges to guide the curve you need. Mark one line on the bottom surface to tell you where to stop. Draw a large cross section of what you are aiming at first. Then work out where to mark the guide lines. Different makers use different shapes. Once the main angles are formed you can blend it into a curve shape.Coat the edge with weak glue before you sand it smooth. It will be easier to manage then. ( Leave it to dry overnight first.)
You need to watch every inch of your work at this stage. Keep an eye on the guide lines all the time. No Bull at a Gate stuff here. It`s not a free-hand guessing stage.

The Heron -Allen book sequence shows the body is already constructed without purfling before you get to the edges at all. Violin specialists say that in Italian violins the bottom of the edges were much squarer than the top of the edges. They had less room to work with the sides in the way.

[John Cadd]

Here`s a paper exercise to show you the method. Draw a circle with a compass about 3 inches diameter. Then draw a square box round it touching a 4 points.We only need top and bottom and one side line for this . The square is to represent the edge of the belly.If you wanted to make a circular edge you start by taking off the main triangular parts at the top and bottom corners.
Now you have a flat bit on top .A small flat vertical bit and two angled edges where you cut off two triangles. None of the circle has been removed. OK Where the small vertical part is --the top of that is for one marker line .The bottom of that vertical part is for a second marker line. Those two marks will run round the edge of the belly before you cut anything.The top surface needs another marker line .And the bottom surface needs a marker line. Cut an angle all round the top edge , religiously following the marks. Same again for the bottom edge. Then coat with a thin layer of glue and , next day ( patience ) , smooth it into a curved edge when the glue is all set. Only seal the edge and do that with the glue brush beneath the wood to avoid dribbles. Don`t throw a bucket full of glue at it. No splashes allowed.
The edges of violins are not usually circular though. You have a shorter turn on the bottom surface and a longer curve up to the highest part of the lip. Magnify some pictures of a Strad to see what he did. Draw the curve you want and adjust the marker lines to suit. Your judgement will become part of your own personal masterpiece. I have every confidence in you .The broad method is more important than some fantastic detailed set of tiny measurements.

[John Cadd]

For the two outside scratch lines needed around the edge make a small wooden block 1/2 inch thick with a sixty degree angle .On the blunt point of that angle tap in two small thin nails at the required positions .Then cut them short with wire cutters and file them to a sharp point to make a double scratch line.Use that with the back or belly on a flat surface.