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BK Member
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60
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Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 10:30 am Post subject: workbenches |
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Hi All,
As I had mentioned in a previous post, I have quite a bit of lutherie paraphernalia piling up around the house. It's just a matter of time before I get demoted from the couch to the shed by my better half. (jk)
So, with that being said, I think it's about time for me to craft a workbench. I was wondering if any fellow luthier's from this forum have any workbench wisdom that they might be able to impart to a neophyte. In particular, I was wondering what people have decided was a good height for a violin making workbench. I have put some thought into this, and my current idea is that a lot of the work will be done standing up. So I should perhaps make a bench that is around belly button level (or slightly higher) for the standing up work, such as roughing out the backs, then for the sitting down work, I can create a stool that will be suitable for the workbench height. This way, the bench will be suitable for both standing up and sitting down work.
My basic philosophy at this point (although, subject to change) is to purchase a butcher block (around $350), attach some sturdy legs to it (was reading it's best to use dowels when attaching legs to table top, instead of screwing on hard metal brackets to prevent tabletop from splitting) and then just add two clamps on the left and right side and a few dog holes.
For the clamps, I was not sure if I should try to get fancy and attempt an end tail vice, or just use two normal vices. I'm not sure if my experience level (and tool level) will allow me to create an end tail vice (it looks a little tricky). Also, I'm not sure how much benefit is to be gained by an end tail vice vs a regular vice. As for the dog holes, I was thinking about just simply drilling a few holes and sticking in dowels. Perhaps I'm oversimplifying here?
Thanks again,
BK |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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The tradition is to put the top of the bench at the same height as the knob on the inside of your wrist with your hands hanging at your side. For me (and most people, I think) that's about 34.5" above the floor.
Here's the best system for stability: if you screw the back of your bench to the wall, it won't matter what you use for legs. All have my benches have been thusly connected, and just sat on their bases with no attachment. They didn't/don't move a bit, no matter what I'm doing. Can't say that for most freestanding benches, but if you insist on freestanding, screw it to the floor or, if we're talking about the hardwood floor in your apartment, to a piece of 3/4" plywood that you stand on while you're working.
Screws won't split anything if you pre-drill holes for them in the maple. Black drywall screws are handy for this type of thing (you can drive them with a power drill and the right bit). If you make the geometry correct, with good diagonal bracing, you can use a braced 2x4 base. One quick way to brace is the way they brace houses: a sheet of just 1/4" plywood or masonite (3/4" for a house, but this isn't a house), screwed onto the sides and back of the frame stiffens things up more than anything else you can do, and dresses up the appearance, too. _________________ new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com |
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BK Member
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60
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Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 1:47 pm Post subject: |
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Sage advice once again Michael. Much appreciated.
I like the wrist measurement. That makes a lot of sense, and I like to keep with tradition.
-BK |
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Mark Sullivan Junior Member
Joined: 13 Apr 2008 Posts: 18 Location: Orland Park Illinois
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Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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| I have one of these, [http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60057852l] on two old base cabinets and it works well. 35.5 inches off the ground. |
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Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
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Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:52 am Post subject: Workbench |
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My youngest daughter gave me a bench just like this, and I think its just great, and the price is not bad at $469. Its not terrible heavy, I used a cargo strap to strap it back against a pillar in the basement (my workshop) so its really sturdy. I'd be lost without it.
I use both vises a lot. I'm not sure how you would improvise for the big wooden screws that operate these vises, but you might end up spending about the same amount trying to work up something similar and not quite accomplish the ease of use the manufactured benches offer.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005401/15505/Sjobergs-Nordic-Plus-1450-Workbench.aspx _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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BK Member
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I picked up my workbench this weekend. Came from a lama farm in Maine.
The owner told me that his father acquired this bench when he purchased and old farm 50 years ago. He said he thinks it was probably made around the turn of the century, or earlier.
It was a bit dirty when I first got it. Had a patina from years of work, fixing lawnmowers, paint stains, ect, but when I sanded it down a bit (which I was a little reluctant to do at first because I hate to take off patina, but rationalized with myself that it is a "work" bench), I discovered some lovely black walnut wood underneath, along with skillfully crafted dovetail joints.
Both of the wood screws work well. Put some linseed oil on them to free up the movement.
All-in-all, I'm quite happy with it and I think the lama farmer was quite happy to receive the 600 dollars because he was trying to sell his farm and therefore was downsizing on everything (including the lamas!). He said that he had no sentimental attachments to it, which made me feel better about the purchase.
[img]
P5150323 by bk4982I, on Flickr[/img]
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P5150322 by bk4982I, on Flickr[/img]
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P5150321 by bk4982I, on Flickr[/img]
[img]
P5150318 by bk4982I, on Flickr[/img]
Last edited by BK on Mon May 16, 2011 5:01 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 7:57 am Post subject: Posting FLIKR images |
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Go to your photo in FLIKR. Next thing you need to do is "grab" the BB code. Above the photo you see a "Actions Menu" to the right of that an envelope, then a facebook logo, then a "tweet" logo, then little down arrow. Click on that little arrow and you'll get a menu drop down. Click on "BB Code" and just above that change the size that you want. The code box above the size menu will change according to what you've chosen. Highlight the "code" and use keys control C (for copy).
Then in your posting in the forum select [img] from the menu above the
message body and it'll put a little code in the text. Then use keys control V (for paste) and it'll put the code in that you copied from flikr. Then click on [img/] code again. To see if it worked, scroll down and "preview" your response and it should actually display the photo. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
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BK Member
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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| Great! Thanks for the detailed instructions Dave! |
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Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 7:37 pm Post subject: Bench |
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Great bench, basic, and solid. The only thing I'd add (which I've found indispensable) is a little tray about 4" wide and 2" deep at the back (and just below bench level) to catch/hold occasional tools, pencils, dogs and such to keep them out of the way while you work. Don't want to knock a tool to the floor and chip an edge while repositioning your work. It should slope up at one end to make it easy to clean out with a bench brush as it will invariably fill with chips, slips, and curls.
BYW you'll notice Lemuel has added a "sticky" on posting photos, that should help us all in the future. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
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BK Member
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2011 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, I like the tray idea. I probably would not have thought of adding one until I broke the tips off of a few chisels.
I believe the bench has a forward slope, so maybe I should put it in the front? |
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Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
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Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 8:20 am Post subject: Workbench |
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If you add it at the front it will be in the way of using the clamp on the front, and you'll be brushing off the bench toward the front as well. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
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