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Violin Bridge Deformation

 
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johngia
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Joined: 10 Nov 2009
Posts: 84

PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 5:40 pm    Post subject: Violin Bridge Deformation Reply with quote

I have a 1/2 size violin that I fitted a bridge to about two years ago. The bridge is now bowed, convex side towards the tail piece. What are the possible causes of this? Can it be straightened, or a must a new one be made?
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Jack H.
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Location: Israel

PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

causes of this is too much tuning from the pegs with out enough graphite in the string grooves. What would help is a periodic rubbing of pencil graphite in the string grooves, that will help the strings slip over the bridge instead of pulling the upper part of the bridge towards the fingerboard. Sometimes it needs to be manually pulled back also.
You can wet the concave side, not a lot, and just the concave side and then put it under ( Very close proximity to) an incandescent lamp. ( when it is off the instrument of course) The heat and water will swell the concave side bringing the bridge back into proper shape. this may need to be done more than once.
That said, I fell that the water and heat soften the bridge a little and has a negative affect. this is a temporary fix and you really should make a new bridge, but you can try it out and see how you feel.

Hope it helps.
Jack Havivi
Havivi Violins
Israel
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1347
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you wax the string grooves (and you really don't want to do this because of what I say next) you will discover that the forces are such that with no friction against the strings to keep it from moving, the bridge will squirt right out from under the strings, towards the board.

That's why yours bent: it's not a stable setup, and these forces are constantly working to push the top of the bridge that way, and do succeed eventually.

Every single time you play your violin you should make sure the back (tailpiece side) of the bridge is perpendicular to the top, and push it back where it belongs. If you do this your bridge will not warp; if you don't, it will always warp.
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Last edited by Michael Darnton on Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:07 am; edited 2 times in total
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johngia
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Joined: 10 Nov 2009
Posts: 84

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jack and Michael.

The 1/2 size is my grandson's, and no longer played. He moved up to a full size. I'll fix and store.

Jack, someday I would like to visit Israel --- a desire I've had for a while now.

Michael, 9 years ago, on MIMF, you helped me make my first violin (johngia = John E. Giarrizzo). Craig had "double dog dared" me to not make another. I'm currently working on No 12. You are a blessing to all who are learning the art. Thanks.
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
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Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. It's always nice to hear that someone has benefited from what I've written. These days you might check http://violinmag.com and http://mdarnton.tumblr.com/ for more.
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Jack H.
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Location: Israel

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, when you do make the decision, just give me a call. I'm an American who moved here 7 years ago.
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johngia
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Joined: 10 Nov 2009
Posts: 84

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jack, will do.
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Violin Repair Guy
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Joined: 09 Sep 2010
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:08 pm    Post subject: Just a thanks Reply with quote

This was some good info, Thanks. I love this forum.
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Eric Luthier
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