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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Canuck Member
Joined: 15 Oct 2012 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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| We had the good fortune of visiting the Stradivarius Museum in Cremona, in October of 2012. Violins, violas, and a cello, ranging from the mid 16th century up until 1947. Most of the big names were represented, and one or two I'd not heard of. In the world we live in, so given over to ephemeral things that are used up and discarded, it is indeed a pleasure to see such dedication as you portray in your video. Very much enjoyed it! |
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rs Member
Joined: 14 Jan 2009 Posts: 188 Location: Holland, Michigan
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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Michael, very nice. I love your work, but more importantly, I love your contributions to the violin maker. This is, I believe, because you have helped me "see" things much better than I did before. You have helped me, not simply to make better violins, but to be a better violin maker (which is infinitely more important to me), more so than you will ever know.
Thank you. _________________ Randall Shenefelt |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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"How cool is that!" ... thanks Michael for the glimpse into your shop.
I love reading your magazine, posts, advice etc. because it is not just a read... There is so much meaning in what you say that it takes (me anyway) time to process and absorb the nuances.
Cheers!... Mat
ps... love your new playing position.... solves any sore neck problems  |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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| Michael Darnton wrote: | | Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate them. |
I agree, very cool.
It's nice to see you talking about violin making Mike.
I do have a sort of challenge if you're interested.
If you ever decide you want to try and challenge the "European wood is best" theory, I do have some interesting domestic spruce I'd like you to perhaps give a try...
Please, let me know if you're interested in trying some.
It's always been my theory that the Europeans simply used the best wood available to them, that was in supply around where they lived. Which doesn't mean that European wood isn't superior, of course, but my idea is that it is incidental also - at least to a degree.
I'm going to push the idea that decently chosen domestic Alaskan Sitka may well be a decent challenge for any European Spruce.
Thoughts?
ct _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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I used Michigan maple for a while and was happy with it. I tried Engelmann spruce and Adirondack spruce, and was not happy with either. I haven't tried Sitka, but Bruce Harvie once sold me a representative sampling of different pieces that he thought would make good violins, that I haven't tried. _________________ new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Michael Darnton wrote: | | I used Michigan maple for a while and was happy with it. I tried Engelmann spruce and Adirondack spruce, and was not happy with either. I haven't tried Sitka, but Bruce Harvie once sold me a representative sampling of different pieces that he thought would make good violins, that I haven't tried. |
Please, if you ever try some, let us know what you think.
I will say that it does vary widely in particulars (color, grain, split, etc.) - Probably much like spruce from anywhere. I do find much that I wouldn't necessarily choose.
I'm curious, how particular one must be when choosing European spruce? Do you see much European tonewood (in particular spruce) offered for sale that you wouldn't use? _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Michael Darnton wrote: | | I use whatever the supplier sends me, and never had a piece not work just as well as any other piece. |
Interesting.
Not the answer I was expecting.... _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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Chet Bishop Super Member

Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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Not that it matters, but I have had two other fairly experienced makers, (Mark Moreland and Paul Schuback) tell me the same thing...that (especially for violins, not so much for larger instruments) European wood produces superior sound.
Paul feels that Sitka Spruce can be used in place of European Spruce with no great loss, but that the European Maple was really necessary for a good violin.
On violas, celli, etc. they both seemed to feel that domestic wood was acceptable, though the graduations might have to be thicker, since the domestic maples are usually not as stiff.
Some other makers have told me that for the violas and celli, Engelmann spruce was good, but not for violins...so, possibly, the size of the instrument has some effect on the type of wood needed. I have pretty much switched to Sikta entirely for now, but, ironically, my best-sounding violas have all had Engelmann. (sigh)
Up until this year, I have felt that my physical skills were the limiting factor, not the wood, but both the above-mentioned makers advised me that the time has come to step up to European wood...so I am beginning to try it, now. I have only bought from IVC, so far...the prices are reasonable, and I can call and talk with them in English, and they deliver promptly...all of which are important to me.
For what it's worth.... _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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Chet Bishop Super Member

Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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Annnnd, I forgot to say, thanks for sharing that video, Michael. It was very encouraging, for some reason.
Good to see you and hear your voice again, I s'pose.  _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Well I'm late to the party, as I've been "off line" for a few days.
I really enjoyed the video too... when you get so much help from someone via a technology as "remote" as the internet it's very nice to see flesh and blood!
And while I'm at it can I ask for more advice?
I'm looking for a good scroll saw to cut out f holes... seeing you use one on the video makes me suspect you have an opinion on this?
Best regards,
Ernie |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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I don't have a strong opinion about the handle. There's a tubular one, a bent flat steel one, and a cast aluminum one. I remember going for the lightest, which was the bent one. I've used the tubular one, and it was OK. The cast one seemed too heavy to me. The bent steel one is the cheapest, also, I believe.
Mine is this one, or like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Groz-Deep-Throat-Fret-Saw/dp/B0032U7IOG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1357086143&sr=8-2&keywords=deep+throat+saw
More difficult is the problem of blades. Coping saw blades, which do have set teeth to make a wide kerf are too wide front-to-back, and don't want to turn the corners tightly enough. Jewelers saws have teeth that are too fine and no set on the teeth, so they really want to go straight ahead, and they don't like turning or hopping over grainlines. The ideal would be fine-tooth coping blades, on shallower stock, and I do believe that originally I ground a lot of the back off coping blades on a belt sander to get what I wanted. Then I discovered a cache of blades from the 1890s that were perfect, all teeth and set, no back, and bought the whole bunch of them--a gross and a half--so I don't have to worry about blades now.
http://mdarnton.tumblr.com/post/13067142079/jewelers-saw-blades-in-my-quest-for-the
The pictures in this link are highly magnified--I think the blade is less than 1.3mm, front to back. _________________ new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com |
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kubasa Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212
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Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 12:12 am Post subject: |
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Michael, when you say you've used Michigan maple are you referring to sugar or red or something else? I'm just curious because I'm working on my 2nd instrument with maple from the U.P. It's sugar maple. I don't need to go to the gym for a while after carving out the plate. That was a lot of work. I liked the sound from the first instrument using sugar maple so like a fool, I'm making another....pretty wood but very hard.
Oh and yes, thank you for posting the video. Very nice to hear a voice and see you at work!
James |
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