Violin Forum/Message Board

ctviolin · Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 12:30 pm Post subject: Domestic wood

It is my experience that domestic (American) wood has as much of a chance of making a wonderful sounding violin, as European wood does. I always wonder if Strad and co were in America during their glory days, if now a days makers would expect a better product simply because domestic (American or Canadian) wood was used... Interestingly enough I have been using American Sitka Spruce since the start (and american maple...) and have come to the conclusion that they will essentially equal the results of any other wood that may be used.

That is, if all of the individual qualities of the wood are considered, and incorporated correctly in the construction...

I wonder how much this idea may be realized - ? Only occasionally - sometimes? Not at all?
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ctviolin · Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 2:26 pm Post subject:

In fact I'll go as far as to say that most people will admit that the violins of yesterday (Strad, Amati, Guaneri Del Gesu, etc.) are generally superior in many ways than the violins of today are, tone, workmanship, varnish, etc.

I agree.

And yet there is this apparent drive towards using the woods of yesterday's makers today, even though the "same" result isn't immediately forthcomming...

Interesting.

And I'm not trying to say that those "European" woods (used correctly) don't work as well as any other violin making wood, either.
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polkat · Member Joined: 16 Aug 2012 Posts: 32

Given the assumption that whatever wood chosen is of the highest quality available, I'd have to agree with ctviolin! While not a prolific violin maker, I've made quite a few, many using American woods, and three made from woods gathered in my own back 40 (which turned out to be three of my best sounding instruments-to me anyway).

I think the idea that European woods are the best comes partially from the stigma of tradition, such as the refusal to use geared pegs or smoothing with sand paper, or other oddities involved with this craft. As I understand it (and I'm often wrong about these things), quality European woods are becoming scarce, so the concept of using alternative wood supplies should be in the back of everyone's mind. Just my 1-1/2 cents.

Michael Darnton · Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:29 pm Post subject:

An observation from my experience is that low density top wood isn't good, no matter what the source. For a while there was a rush to get the lowest density of spruce possible, in order to make a light responsive violin. My experience is that this results in a tonally boring violin. For a long time I thought it was a problem with non-European wood, but now I just think it's a problem with light wood. I think you've probably dodged this particular bullet by using sitka.

As regards the maple, I've used very hard and dense sugar maple, with appropriate grads, and it worked fine for me--no different from European--but I made quite a few 3.2mm (center) backs to get the weight down far enough.
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ctviolin · Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 10:22 am Post subject:

ctviolin · Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 10:31 am Post subject:

actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

Hi CT!!!

I've found European maple especially difficult to equal in domestic (north american) sources. Those billets with really fine growth, silky lustre, low density, pronounced curl... mmmmm.

I just can't get my head around those annular rings on bigleaf. Even if it's wonderful stuff it just doesn't look "Cremonese."

actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

Michael:

Can I ask whether you tend to target a weight goal for finished tops or focus on thickness?

I've noticed that on European tops, thicknessed to Del Gesu type schemes, (bar in with f holes) the tops fall within the mid sixty gram mark.

Best regards,

E

Michael Darnton · Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 2:50 pm Post subject:

I think my tops run around 80 grams, backs 100-125, depending on the wood. Englemann is the wood I couldn't get to work--too light, and the violins sounded loud and plain.

Sugar maple is easy to get if you live in the right place. I got mine from a mill near where I lived. I don't know about buying it at a lumberyard. I don't use it anymore--it's too much work.
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actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

Michael:

With tops at that weight, have you ever had finished backs that had a lower ring tone than the top?

(mode 5 I think those guys call it?)

E

actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

Michael Darnton · Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 3:14 pm Post subject:

What's a "ring tone"?
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actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

Very good!

E

ctviolin · Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 3:23 pm Post subject:

actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

this site has it for sale...

E