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"Black Light" Drying cabinet
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 691
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:27 pm    Post subject: Drying box Reply with quote

I think its the light, warm air flow, and likely the bulb dries the air as well. I think 85 degrees should be pretty safe. I'm using oil varnish.
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo
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JWH
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Joined: 26 Mar 2007
Posts: 72

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use oil varnish as well, Dave, and use the limited heat off the BLB bulbs with an open vent in the bottom and top of the box. No added heat source, no fans. Temperature stays around 75 degrees and I can dry a varnish coat in 8 hours to touch. There's a point over 100 degrees which cause small blisters in my varnish, so I am one who favors low temperatures. John
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 691
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 2:55 pm    Post subject: Drying cabinet Reply with quote

Update -- I finally installed 4 24" black-lights in my drying cabinet, cost me $11 apiece at Wal-Mart. They come with fixtures and bulbs. 10 minutes and 4 screws to install. I don't know what kind of UV light they put out, but it really works well. Temperature in the box now runs about 92F. The bulb itself is not hot to the touch at all. Pretty safe. Now I can apply a thin coat of varnish every 5-6 hours, and if left overnight its a good hard finish.

Question -- is this a good way to "tan" a white violin too?
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo
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Andres Sender
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 275
Location: N. CA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's an adequate way, could take a week or more though, that's the tradeoff.
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mikemolnar
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Joined: 30 Mar 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use T10 germicidal lamps from 1000Bulbs.com.

Four are adequate, but I use six staggered at different heights to get the entire body and scroll.

Mike
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Andres Sender
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Location: N. CA

PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike am I right to assume you use those just for tanning? Do you take any particularly stringent precautions with them?
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mikemolnar
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no special protection other than not opening the door when the lights are on. Air is circulated through a filter and the temperature reaches 82 F. The inside of the cabinet is lined with aluminum foil.

I use the cabinet for tanning and curing oil varnish. Any ebony parts on the violin are covered with masking tape; otherwise, they get too warm which could soften their glue.
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mikemolnar
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Joined: 30 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those who are careful about UV, there is a nifty detector that I use to watch for UV leaks.

There is a plastic sealer to bottles and packages that glows blue in the presence of ANY UV radiation. I know it is on tubs of raisins and soft drink bottles. Check your kitchen cabinet or refrigerator.

Just hold this in any light that has UV and you will see it glow. Test it in sunlight. It will not glow under incandescent lamps.

Neat stuff.

Mike
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johnsonfredral
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Joined: 24 Aug 2010
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:05 am    Post subject: re: Reply with quote

thanks for sharing Smile
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 691
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:46 pm    Post subject: Black lights Reply with quote

Just a precaution, something I learned the hard way. I was using a light bulb below the UV light box to create heat to move air up through the box. I began to have trouble with plates detaching from the lower block, and finally figured the source of my problem, just too much heat. I had the violins mounted on a peg attached to the base of the box, up through the tailpiece peg hole, so the lower block was getting all the heat.

Lately, I've been storing my back and top in this light box while working on graduation, purfling, and final edgework etc, and while completing the neck and scroll. I've read that tanning (or subjection to UV) for the equivalent of several days of full sunlight, conditions or ages the wood equivalent to several years of additional natural aging of the wood.
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo
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arordame
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Joined: 16 Aug 2011
Posts: 4
Location: Izamal, Yucatan

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 11:18 pm    Post subject: UV LEDs Reply with quote

Has anyone tried using UV LEDs for a light box? My experience with LEDs for lighting has shown a tremendous energy saving.
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mikemolnar
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I want to point out about UV cabinets is to use only FLUORESCENT bulbs not incandescent like those used in terrariums. The latter emit too much heat (infrared) that can fry your varnish in spots.

I know sadly from experience.

Stay Tuned.
Mike
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