Violin Forum/Message Board

There's plenty of room inside for a new block, and most classical period violiins don't have their original--I've seen maybe five or six, only. A lot of people try to get quickly down to 2.5mm, whatev ...

You might consider changing the upper block to a more modern 60 x 18 mm dimension since the original wasn't going to have a neck block set deeply into it. Nice form.

That works. Thanks.

Unlike your form post, these are tiny and unreadable. Can you make them larger?

If you lay on the thinnest and most dilute layers the oil seals before it soaks. Imaging loading a sponge with shellac and then squeezing it out--when it dries, and it will dry relatively quickly, all ...

That's it exactly. The neck needs to be supported in order to put all of the vibration into the bridge. A head that's flopping around because the neck isn't supported is not contributing anything, and ...

Don't scuff up the ground. It's not needed, and if at any point you cut through it you will regret it! Guaranteed.

You can make sure you don't put too much on the top: you don't have to give the top all it wants. One way is to dilute the oil a lot with turpentine (like three drops of oil in an ounce of turpentine) ...

I am. We'll see if you are. :-)

Yes, a bit of concavity is the classical Italian way. the different prominent makers did it in slightly different ways, and there's also a 19th century French style and an early 20th century Italian s ...

Knowing that no one will actually do it, I suggest linseed oil. :-)
Or maybe a very thin wash of glue followed by the stain of your choice, depending on what you want to see.

I think it's just you and me.

I haven't bought any recently, myself. Maybe someone else....

I think most of the good internet sources charge pretty much the same.